johnvano.com

Hey, Park Ranger

It had already been a day full of wandering when we pulled into Fort Yargo State Park. We went to church in Atlanta, discovered a great new lunch place, ran back to the church for a Bible ceremony with Halle and Emma, changed clothes at home, drove to Braselton's first mall, then had a slice of pizza in Winder before hitting the park.

 

At the park, I sent Paula to the park office for a map while I slipped a fiver to one of the girls at the gate. I asked, "Do you have a two-mile trail we can hike?" Though they didn't have a two-mile trek, she assured me we could pick any trail, hike as long as we wanted, and turn around when we got tired. "Great," I said as my wife climbed back into the van without a map. 

We followed the road for awhile until we got to a camp of motorized trailers, newly installed yurts (pre-fab tentish igloos), and a boat launch. We parked, negotiated who'd carry which water bottle, and made a final stop at the bathrooms. As we started toward the trail a helpful sign told us we were heading onto a 2.6 mile path. I crinkled my brow and thought, "Now why didn't the parking girl tell me she had a trail close to 2 miles long?" It indicated that it should take an hour and a half to hike. I saw that it was 5:58 and we'd have just enough time to enjoy ourselves before it got dark.

As we started I chatted with a barefoot seaman who was dragging in a boatload of driftwood. He liked to make art from the pieces, giving them googly eyes and offering them as gifts named, "The Family Tree." Cooper talked too loudly about the man as we walked away, "Why doesn't he have any shoes? What is he doing with that wood? Is he really called a seaman?"

It didn't take long for the arguing to start. Mostly the kids argued over the unconscionable task of carrying 16 ounces of water like a pack mule and that someone else needed to take a turn, so I implored them to race. I lined them up and pointed to the crest of a hill, they took off, and Paula and I enjoyed a two-minute conversation together. Then they came racing back, complaining that the race was unfair, someone had pushed them aside and they surely would have won if left alone.

We heard the sounds of music and frivolity from somewhere up along the lake and I reminded the kids that this was "Sandy's Party"--at least the signs said so as we entered the park earlier. We soon eyed a beach on the other side of the lake and marked it as a landmark to watch for as we rounded our modest trail. But as we passed the hour mark of our hike, I began to wonder what we'd gotten ourselves into. The yellow blaze still marked the trees along the trail, but the path had been interrupted by some unclear transitions. Still, we kept following our blaze, kept following the lake--could it be any farther to just keep going than to turn around and hike an hour back?

There was a lot of beauty to take in, and other than 5-year-old Cooper, no one complained of being tired. I hoisted Cooper to my shoulders as we reached a long bridge complete with fishermen, some scooping catfish off the bottom of the lake, others using bits of chicken livers to attract the primo fish on top. The beach was next--by then Paula and I were aware we were facing some trouble--and I had the sinking suspicion that we might be only halfway around the lake. The trail also ended and we were forced to walk through a park and up to the road to get around this parking area. Here I asked a young woman who barely acknowledged my existence if we were near the boat ramp. She pointed the opposite direction and I wasn't sure she even knew what a boat ramp was. We picked up the trail again and continued around the lake, pressing to make it to our cars before it was dark. It was getting ever-so-close to 8 pm and Paula and I would have jogged if the kids could keep up. Several times I offered to leave my cell phone with Paula, she and the kids could sit at a picnic table, and I could run to the car--but she refused.

At the next clearing we found the actual site of Fort Yargo--it was a cool, stick-built structure that I didn't even know existed. We filled up our water bottles at the pump and skipped this historic marker, pushing on to the road. We flagged down a jogger and a moment later, a car. Both told us how to reach the main gate (about half a mile ahead) and the lot where we'd parked--which was an additional 2 miles. This is when the kids got nervous. With a tear running down his cheek, Marshall moaned, "I'm tired, Dad. Are we ever going to get out of here?" Most of the others seemed frightened too, with Paula growing increasingly nervous as we were in full dusk. Cooper hopped around in a world of his own--I kept forgetting to watch for him in the chaos of cries--and Halle seemed up for more adventure. We huddled together and prayed for our deliverance, knowing God would lead us and take care of us.

I bustled down to a rented cottage and knocked on the door. A balding man came to the door with his young daughter and I asked if we could have a map. As he went and got one I hoped he'd read my face and offer us a ride. He was very helpful, pointing out our current location, offering to let me keep the map, but he offered no further assistance. I stood outside his closed door, straining to judge where our car was--it wasn't marked on the map, though I recognized things nearby. Then Paula called to me from the road.

She had flagged down a park ranger who gave us walking directions then saw our faces and knew we needed more help than that. Paula pleaded for a ride and so he let her and Cooper climb into the cab of his truck with his gun, while I, the dog, and four kids clambered over the tailgate to sit amidst his boys' trail bikes. Emma was terrified to be so exposed on the open road, but soon relaxed and we all got cool and began to laugh again. The ranger confessed to Paula that we were the third family he'd given a lift to that day, and admitted that the trail we took was very confusing--it was 2.6 miles, but not a loop. At some point you're supposed to recognize it's over, and turn back. New maps and new signs are on their way he promised, as he asked us to come again.

With darkness descended, we got into our car, weary but relieved. We said a prayer of thanks, then hit the nearest McDonald's for a very satisfying treat as we left Winder for the 45-minute drive home.

Shop, Chalk, and Swim

Okay, back to my vacation recap... boy, do I miss these days. We stayed on a few days in Jacksonville, then headed to Orlando for a family reunion to honor my wife's grandfather on his 80th birthday. Here are some shots of us at Downtown Disney. Yup, that dragon is made out of LEGOS. And yup, those are my sons... one too cool for pictures, one not paying attention.

 

They were doing some pretty amazing chalk art on the sidewalks. It's an annual festival--this year's honored the masters. Though my best two photos are of some baby and Christopher Walken.

 

We grabbed lunch at McDonald's (just $8.95 for a value meal!) and shopped...

 

The kids capped off the day with a swim, joining their cousins and their Great Uncle Pat.

 

Tillie, Larry, and Berries

On our second day of vacation, with my dad joining me, Paula, and the kids, we hit Tillie Fowler Regional Park (Jacksonville) for a day of exploration. I thought a walk in the great outdoors might pull us through on the day after "that election." We arrived just in time for a hokey program put on by a tireless city employee, and were introduced to snakes and other assorted unlikely pets. Then we made binoculars out of toilet paper rolls for a squirrel hunt.

  

Marshall thought the binoculars ought to really work--he kept complaining that his toilet paper roll binocs "didn't help." The squirrel hunt through the woods did teach us how to watch for telltale signs of squirrels--what they eat, what they scratch, where they nest... then as our guide led the group on a return hike to the center, we ditched the group and forged ahead. With my instincts and a crude map to guide us, we found a three-tiered observation deck, a 100-year-old brick road, and a rough path few seemed to have taken.

 

Actually, it was Halle who led us, using the blue blaze on the trees as her guide. She did a great job--there were just a few spots where I needed to point out a blaze she had missed. I called her "Scout" for the rest of the day.

 

There was also a butterfly garden, where we tried to trick one into landing on our finger. I guess wild butterflies are smarter than the ones they keep in butterfly "habitats."

 

After the hike, we hit the playground and then had an amazing lunching experience at Larry's Giant Subs. This place was delicious, and as we traveled the next few days, we kept finding them. Alas, our last siting was nowhere near Atlanta (just outside Savannah).

 

  

Then we hit the Chamblin BookMine, one of the all-time best used bookstores, with row-upon-row of books. Paula and I were careful to spend less than 50 bucks there--she on supplemental textbooks for the kids' school, me on an Andrew Jackson biography (our first and maybe my favorite Democratic president).

   

Finally, as we waited for my mom to get home from work, the kids played outside at my parent's house. Here's a shot (above) of the berries Cooper was found eating. He's still with us, so I guess they weren't poisonous.

Back in the A.T.L.

Late Thursday night, we arrived home from vacation. I'll try to share photo highlights from each day as this week kicks off. I know you've missed me... I've missed you, too.

After I voted on 11/4 and the kids went to their homeschool co-op school, we hit the road for the six hour-plus ride to Jacksonville.

Here's a shot of Marshall enjoying his very first Krystal. None of the kids liked the burgers until Paula and I explained the history and southern tradition of them, explaining what it is to acquire a taste for something (this also comes up when I try to get everyone else in the family to try some fish). Soon most of the family had agreed that the Krystals weren't so bad afterall. We bought about 8 too many--thinking the little tykes would eat more of the little patties.

Madison is pictured with her midday chocolate milk. I don't know how it started, but all of our kids have to have their chocolate milk to start the day... or we'll hear about it until they do.

Scenes from Mt. Rainey, Georgia

  

I took Marshall and Madison on a Boy Scout Family Camping Trip last Friday-Saturday. Here are some scenes from our adventures in the woods and on the mountain on 10/25 in Clayton, Georgia. Story to follow.

 

 

The Old Covered Bridge: A State Park Journey

About 15 miles east of Athens, Georgia, is Watson Mill Bridge State Park. Nestled on just over 1,000 acres, the park features the longest existing covered bridge in Georgia--236 feet. The park also boasts a five-mile pond and a man-made waterfall that drops off from just past the bridge into a stream with assailable rock croppings.

We had not made a family trip to a state park since September, and a Georgia State Park since August--so we were jonesing for a new trip. We  took the long drive on Sunday afternoon, and it was well worth it. Watson Mill Bridge is the tenth Georgia state park we have visited.

I am ranking Watson Mill Bridge fourth on my list of 10 parks, but that could change after I put all the parks through the scoring system I've developed on page two of this post.

In an effort to standardize my state park rankings, I am developing a series of 10 ranking categories. This will allow me to be less subjective and protect me from revering one site too much or putting the most recent visit above others that have faded into my gray matter.

Carnivorous Bees & Pulpit Rock: A Day in Alabama

We spent Labor Day traveling to and touring through Cheaha State Park in Alabama. I thought it might be interesting to go "off the reservation" so to speak and see what the next state over had to offer. From these views, you'd conclude quite a bit. But, overall, I'm much more impressed with the parks Georgia maintains. In Georgia it's clearer where things are, and more seems to be connected, whereas from this one Alabama experience, there were a lot of little trails, and not one you could become embedded with. Though they did have a trail fashioned for seniors and the handicapped, which was a great idea. A good day was had by all, but next time we'll stay in Georgia. Though that DeSoto Park in Alabama does look tempting...

This is Marshall and Emma from the clearest vantage point at Cheaha. It's at the end of the Doug Ghee Accessible Trail. We also climbed a fire tower (at 2,402 feet, it's the highest point in Alabama), but the sight lines weren't as good).

Me and the kids are pictured in front of some kind of landmark at the end of the Doug Ghee trail. And on the right, there's an odd bug Emma discovered in the midst of her tears (after falling down).

Nothing's So Sweet as Sweetwater Creek

There's a new sheriff in town! In my continuing quest to visit all of Georgia's 46 state parks, I discovered a new number one--Sweetwater Creek in Lithia Springs (just past Six Flags Over Georgia). Madison, Marshall, Emma, and Halle spent the day with me there on Sunday... and this is what we discovered:

Although it was 100 degrees outside (that's why Paula and Cooper stayed home), we really didn't notice it much until after the first 90 minutes or so. It was only after we had run out of water that we became tired and a little bit dehydrated.

At this point I needed to make a critical decision about whether to press forward toward "the falls" or turn and go back. When we started out I had only glanced at the map--loop trails at state parks usually take just an hour or so to hike--but when we reached "the ruins" (an old Civil War-era factory), I realized we were barely a quarter of the way down the loop. Still, we had stopped, posed for photos, and danced along the rocks a lot, surely we could make better time if we "pushed it." But the trail had slowly changed from a wide, flat path to one of narrow passes, steep climbs, and tall stairways.

<Pictured at left is the best shot I could get of the copperhead snake we passed while hiking. He was coiled up about 3 feet from where we walked, in a 2-foot hole. It had seemed like a great place for a snake, so I peeked into the hole and was shocked to see him there. I've never been that exposed to one before--and with four young children it made me nervous. Although I did hang out and take surreptious photos of it, craning over the hole while the kids were a few feet away. Finally, three yahoos came walking by with orange vests and I pointed the snake out to them. With my children a safe distance away, they poked it awake with a stick and confirmed, "It's alive! Do you want to see it?" Then they died... no, not really, but they were pretty stupid.>

Our Mountains to Beach Vacation: The Mountains

From Sunday, July 15 through Thursday, July 19 we were in the Georgia mountains (Unicoi State Park, outside of Helen) at a family reunion featuring my father-in-law's side of the family. It was an opportunity to stay in a nice three-bedroom cabin with my in-laws, wife, and kids, get reacquainted with the uncles and cousins I know from this side of the family, and meet some new folks, too. I also greatly enjoyed the brief family history my father-in-law shared on a long car drive one morning.

On our first full day we visited Anna Ruby Falls. It was interesting that you had to drive through Unicoi State Park to get there. Anna Ruby is federally owned and operated, I gathered. The all uphill walk is said to be 4/10s of a mile, but it felt longer--especially in the rain. And particularly when we walked halfway up, went back to get out of the rain, and then traipsed up again. But I love these walks. And the falls were far more majestic than I ever imagined. The photo below does not even begin to capture just how tall the falls on the left are.

The moth you see above was on the grill of a truck when we pulled into our parking space at Anna Ruby. I carefully extracted it, and let the kids hold it (being careful that no one touched its wings). Eventually the moth found its way on to Madison's shirt, and there it sat for most of the hike.  We also took the kids fishing for the very first time--Marshall was particularly hopped up about this. But, we didn't get even a nibble, and most of the kids found it very boring, that is until Madison and Marshall were given free rein to cast--they certainly liked that, and as my eyes and mouth are still in good working order, it seems they really did miss me with their flying hooks.

Continue reading and you'll find out about the boy who eats butter, the birthplace of Ty Cobb, and the best place to buy plums...

The Yoshi of Helen

The following is the first in a short series of reflections on the strangers I met last week while on our "Mountains to Beach" family vacation:

--------------------------------------------

At the apex of Helen, Georgia and Unicoi State Park sits a grungy convenience store complete with gas pumps, foodstuff, and live bait. On my way to take our kids fishing for the first time, I dropped in for some worms and minnows, stopping outside to take a peek at the crickets. They were in a large wooden box out front and when I lifted the lid, it was like one of the plagues of Moses--hopping, chirping insects, stinking and making me wretch. I went inside and bought some worms, but despite their advertising, they had no minnows.

Later that evening, I stopped in for some milk and overheard a forty-ish, rail-thin local tell the shopkeep about her wedding plans, or rather, her fiance's wedding plans. It seems that he required her to 1) lose weight, 2) stop smoking, and 3) travel to Parakeet Island to get married. The Pakistani-esque clerk offered his sage advice, "Your partner should not ask you to change. What do you want to do?"

When she had left, I plopped down my chocolate milk and soda as he shook his head over the complications of love. He said, "When I get married... again... I am going to tell her, I have flaws and you have flaws. Accept me for who I am, and I will accept you. Life is too short." I agreed that marriage is a commitment between two imperfect people.

Then I asked him if the store was his and I was told that he managed it for a friend (likely the day clerk who was unconcerned about the lack of minnows). He continued, "I never thought about owning. I like to be free. I work and save money, then travel." His last trip was an extended stay in Japan. He's now saving for a trip to Australia and New Zealand. His long hair and contented manner left me with a new and improved impression of this little, grungy outpost.